SCAP signatories set to miss waste reduction targets
The Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) has published the latest results of its Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) 2020 Commitment, revealing that participating companies are making slow progress towards their waste reduction targets.
Launched in 2013, SCAP is a voluntary commitment aiming to reduce the carbon, water and waste footprint of clothing by 15 per cent by 2020. With over 90 signatories and supporters, including ASOS and M&S, SCAP represents more than 48 per cent of UK retail sales by volume.
Although signatories have committed to reducing total waste arisings by 3.5 per cent and reducing waste to landfill and incineration by 15 per cent, it seems unlikely that these targets will be met by the end of 2020 – between 2012 and 2018, SCAP signatories cut waste arisings by 1.4 per cent and have only reduced the amount of clothing sent to landfill or incineration by four per cent.
SCAP has pledged to focus on reducing the volume of clothing waste sent to landfill or incineration over the coming year, with campaigns such as Donation Generation encouraging citizens to reuse or recycle their clothes.
Despite making limited progress towards their waste targets, SCAP’s signatories have been successful in reducing their water and carbon footprints. According to WRAP’s progress report, SCAP signatories have exceeded the commitment’s water target with a reduction of 18.1 per cent, mainly due to the increased use of lower impact cottons such as those accredited by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI).
Achieving a carbon reduction of 13.4 per cent, signatories are also on track to meeting SCAP’s carbon target, with WRAP forecasting that the 15 per cent target will be exceeded by the end of 2020.
Peter Maddox, Director of WRAP, said: “I am delighted by the improvements SCAP signatories have made in carbon and water, but waste and influencing consumer behaviour remain more challenging. The next few years will be an interesting time for the sector.
“As well as the economic context and trends in fashion, we have EU exit and increased sector scrutiny that may all shape the future for UK fashion.
“SCAP is well placed to help British businesses stay on trend and react to the demand for more sustainably produced clothes. I am delighted that the SCAP Footprint Calculator has become such a key resource for many of the UK’s biggest names, helping brands to focus their improvement actions and demonstrate their progress.”
Environment Minister Rebecca Pow commented: “WRAP’s report shows some of the country’s biggest clothing brands and retailers are making real progress in making their industry more sustainable. The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan is a great way for the textiles industry to come together and do more to protect our precious natural environment, and we will continue to work with everyone involved to take forward this initiative.
“But there’s much more to do, in particular reducing the amount of clothing that goes to landfill. That’s why the government is committed to protecting the environment and tackling climate change by cutting waste and using resources more sustainably through plans set out in our landmark Resources and Waste Strategy.”
‘Fast fashion’ – the mass production of cheap clothing with short lifespans – has been on the rise over recent years, with more than 300,000 tonnes of clothing ending up in landfill or incineration each year in the UK.
In February, Parliament’s Environment Audit Committee (EAC) called for fashion brands and retailers to take more responsibility for the waste they produce, proposing a one pence producer responsibility fee on each item of clothing sold. This proposal was rejected by the government in June, which instead expressed a preference for voluntary measures to tackle the environmental impact of fashion waste.
You can read the SCAP progress report in full on the WRAP website.
