FEAD responds to the EU sustainable textile strategy

The European Waste Management Association (FEAD) has responded to the EU's 'Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles', which was presented on 30 March. The body has announced its ‘strong support’ for the Strategy’s policies.

The main aim of the Textile Strategy, as proposed by the European Commission, is to create a consistent framework and vision for the transition of the textiles sector by 2030.

FEAD says that it supports the introduction of policies such as ‘binding product specific ecodesign requirements, to increase textiles performance in terms of durability, reusability, reparability, fibre-to-fibre recyclability and the introduction of mandatory recycled fibre content’.

In its announcement, FEAD stated that ‘significant efforts’ in research and innovation must be made regarding textile recycling, especially fibre-to-fibre recycling, in the next few years. Mandatory recycled content, the body says, will trigger needed investments and support the aim of the Commission to encourage businesses to prioritise their efforts on fibre-to-fibre recycling. FEAD also asserts that mandatory criteria for green public procurement of textile will also contribute to increase the recyclability of textiles and the purchase of recycled textiles.

As part of the forthcoming revision of the Waste Framework Directive in 2023, the Strategy will introduce Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) requirements with eco-modulation of fees, which FEAD says will help incentivise the separate collection, sorting, reuse, preparation for reuse and recycling for textile waste, the body stating that the latter requires further development’.

FEAD further highlights textile-to-textile recycling as a key strategy for saving resources in the sector, ‘preserving the value of materials and fostering a circular economy.’ Developing a market and qualitative initial products, the body says, is essential.

The current global trend for ‘fast fashion’, FEAD adds, is a large hurdle to more recycling needing to be tackled at EU level. In terms of waste shipments, the body states that the EU should set up an ‘effective control mechanism for the exports of used textiles’ in order to avoid illegal shipments and ensure environmentally sound recycling and recovery processes outside the EU.

Continuing, FEAD says that specific EU-level criteria needs to be developed to make a distinction between waste and certain second-hand textile products, to avoid that waste streams are falsely labelled as second-hand goods when exported from the EU, and, in this way, escape the waste regime. Exports of textile waste to non-OECD countries have to follow conditions that ensure a sustainable management under the Waste Shipment Regulation, FEAD adds.

The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles

Last month, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles was proposed, setting out potential actions to achieve better longevity and sustainability of textile products by 2030. To do this, the EU suggests that as many textile products as possible are made out of recycled fibres, free of hazardous substances and produced in respect of social rights and the environment.

Specific measures include ecodesign requirements for textiles, clearer information, a Digital Product Passport, and a mandatory EU EPR scheme. It also foresees measures to tackle the unintentional release of microplastics from textiles, ensure the accuracy of green claims, and boost circular business models, including reuse and repair services.

To address fast fashion, the Strategy calls on companies to reduce the number of collections per year, take responsibility and act to minimise their carbon and environmental footprints, and on Member States to adopt favourable taxation measures for the reuse and repair sector. The Commission states that it will also make efforts to promote the shift with awareness-raising activities.