'Great potential' to capture more textiles

A contributor to a WRAP-commissioned project exploring the effect of differing sources of recovered textiles on quality and resale value has responded positively to its findings but urges that more needs to be done to collect ‘cleaner’ textiles.

Salford-based textile recycling company, I&G Cohen Ltd, carried out a series of trials for the project to help identify which sources generate the highest value returns for the UK reuse and recycling market.

The report, ‘Impact of Textile Feedstock Source on Value’, found that more than four out of five textile items donated via established routes – such as charity shops, textile banks, kerbside and door to door collections – have the potential to be successfully reused or recycled.

Eliot Cohen, Managing Director of I&G Cohen said: “These results show there is great potential to capture more clothing and household textile items that will divert more of the one million-plus tonnes of these items that go to landfill each year in the UK – benefiting the environment and conserving resources.

“It is very encouraging to see that over 80 per cent of clothing is re-usable. Textiles are a resource and not a waste, so it’s vital that the public should continue to donate their unwanted items.”

However, while items such as clothing and carpets are being recycled more successfully than ever, the project also identified that there is still more that could be done to prevent textiles going to landfill. Cohen explained that partnerships between local authorities and waste management companies can help maximise revenue from donated textiles, creating even more of an incentive to divert it from landfill.

“Our textile bank collection services for one local authority raised over £90,000 in the first year; money that can be ploughed back into council services. This highlights what a resource recycling unwanted textiles can be for the local economy as well as being good for the environment. It’s a win-win all round!”

The trials revealed that the least effective source of textiles tested was co-mingled kerbside collections. Textiles collected using this method are taken to a Materials Recovery Facility (MRF), where they are processed through a trommel screen before being separated and baled to be sent for recycling. Due to the heavy contamination and likelihood of damage from the sorting process, co-mingled kerbside collections caused the highest levels of wastage among the methods tested.

Together with report co-authors Axion Consultancy, I&G Cohen also investigated the economic and environmental impacts of washing and drying contaminated textiles – such as those from co-mingled kerbside collections – for reuse and recycling. Following four trials, they concluded that, while it was possible to recover up to 75 per cent of clothing from landfill for reuse, unfortunately it was not economically viable to do so.

“In our view, while in some cases laundering could add value, the £700,000 equipment cost does not warrant the investment. Collecting textiles via ‘cleaner’ routes is far better to maximise recycling and re-use opportunities,” Cohen concluded.